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India 2017

A Travel Diary

India 2017

Gujarat, the stepwells, and Mumbai — December 2017

71Photographs
11Days
6Places
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Temples, stepwells & the sea

A winter trip across western India — the temples, lakes and ancient ruins of Gujarat, the astonishing carved stepwell at Adalaj, the vast Laxmi Vilas Palace at Vadodara, and then Mumbai: the rock-cut caves of Elephanta Island, the gulls over the harbour, the Gateway of India and the grand Gothic city, and the old-world halls of the Taj. Tap any photo to enlarge it, or open the map.

A winter trip across western India, from quiet Gujarat to the roar of Mumbai. In Gujarat we found temples and lake-country ruins, the astonishing carved stepwell at Adalaj descending cool and deep out of the heat, and the vast Laxmi Vilas Palace at Vadodara.

Then Mumbai, all energy and edges: the rock-cut caves of Elephanta Island out in the harbour, gulls wheeling over the ferries, the Gateway of India, and the grand Gothic city around it, with the old-world halls of the Taj to finish. A trip that held two very different Indias in the same two weeks.

This trip ran 11 days, December 29, 2017 – January 12, 2018. Along the way we spent time at Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the Taj, The Adalaj Stepwell, The Elephanta Caves, Vadodara — palace & city, and Gujarat — temples, lakes & ruins. The gallery below tells it day by day, in 71 photographs.

Day 1

Fri 29 Dec

Gujarat — temples, lakes & ruins

Gujarat — temples, lakes & ruins
Gujarat — temples, lakes & ruinsA roadside shrine and the dry Gujarat plains.

Day 2

Sat 30 Dec

Gujarat — temples, lakes & ruins

Gujarat — temples, lakes & ruins
Gujarat — temples, lakes & ruinsA great bronze Shiva watching over the water.
Gujarat — temples, lakes & ruins
Gujarat — temples, lakes & ruinsOne of the old temples, its shikhara rising over the town.
Gujarat — temples, lakes & ruins
Gujarat — temples, lakes & ruinsA still reservoir mirroring the morning sky.

Day 3

Sun 31 Dec

The Adalaj Stepwell

The Adalaj Stepwell
The Adalaj StepwellThe Adalaj Stepwell, five storeys of carved stone going down into the dark.
The Adalaj Stepwell
The Adalaj StepwellLooking up the octagonal shaft to a square of sky.
The Adalaj Stepwell
The Adalaj StepwellEvery pillar and lintel covered in carving.
The Adalaj Stepwell
The Adalaj StepwellCool air and old water at the bottom of the well.
The Adalaj Stepwell
The Adalaj StepwellThe information board for the 15th-century stepwell.

Day 4

Mon 1 Jan

The Adalaj Stepwell

The Adalaj Stepwell
The Adalaj StepwellLight falling through the galleries onto the stone.
The Adalaj Stepwell
The Adalaj StepwellThe Adalaj Stepwell, five storeys of carved stone going down into the dark.

Day 5

Tue 2 Jan

The Adalaj Stepwell

The Adalaj Stepwell
The Adalaj StepwellLooking up the octagonal shaft to a square of sky.
The Adalaj Stepwell
The Adalaj StepwellEvery pillar and lintel covered in carving.
The Adalaj Stepwell
The Adalaj StepwellCool air and old water at the bottom of the well.
The Adalaj Stepwell
The Adalaj StepwellThe information board for the 15th-century stepwell.
The Adalaj Stepwell
The Adalaj StepwellLight falling through the galleries onto the stone.
The Adalaj Stepwell
The Adalaj StepwellThe Adalaj Stepwell, five storeys of carved stone going down into the dark.
The Adalaj Stepwell
The Adalaj StepwellLooking up the octagonal shaft to a square of sky.
The Adalaj Stepwell
The Adalaj StepwellEvery pillar and lintel covered in carving.
The Adalaj Stepwell
The Adalaj StepwellCool air and old water at the bottom of the well.

Day 6

Wed 3 Jan

Vadodara — palace & city

Vadodara — palace & city
Vadodara — palace & cityLaxmi Vilas Palace, four times the size of Buckingham.
Vadodara — palace & city
Vadodara — palace & cityThe palace towers against a hard blue sky.

Day 7

Sat 6 Jan

Vadodara — palace & city

Vadodara — palace & city
Vadodara — palace & cityThe Sabarmati riverfront lit up at night.
Vadodara — palace & city
Vadodara — palace & cityCity streets, scooters, and the hum of the evening.
Vadodara — palace & city
Vadodara — palace & cityLaxmi Vilas Palace, four times the size of Buckingham.
Vadodara — palace & city
Vadodara — palace & cityThe palace towers against a hard blue sky.
Vadodara — palace & city
Vadodara — palace & cityThe Sabarmati riverfront lit up at night.
Vadodara — palace & city
Vadodara — palace & cityCity streets, scooters, and the hum of the evening.

Day 8

Mon 8 Jan

Mumbai harbour

Mumbai harbour
Mumbai harbourIndia, in all its noise and color.

Day 9

Wed 10 Jan

Mumbai harbour · The Elephanta Caves · Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the Taj

Mumbai harbour
Mumbai harbourIndia, in all its noise and color.
Mumbai harbour
Mumbai harbourIndia, in all its noise and color.
Mumbai harbour
Mumbai harbourIndia, in all its noise and color.
Mumbai harbour
Mumbai harbourIndia, in all its noise and color.
Mumbai harbour
Mumbai harbourIndia, in all its noise and color.
Mumbai harbour
Mumbai harbourIndia, in all its noise and color.
Mumbai harbour
Mumbai harbourIndia, in all its noise and color.
Mumbai harbour
Mumbai harbourIndia, in all its noise and color.
Mumbai harbour
Mumbai harbourIndia, in all its noise and color.
Mumbai harbour
Mumbai harbourIndia, in all its noise and color.
Mumbai harbour
Mumbai harbourIndia, in all its noise and color.
Mumbai harbour
Mumbai harbourIndia, in all its noise and color.
Mumbai harbour
Mumbai harbourIndia, in all its noise and color.
The Elephanta Caves
The Elephanta CavesThe rock-cut caves of Elephanta, carved out of the living basalt.
The Elephanta Caves
The Elephanta CavesA colossal Shiva relief, fifteen hundred years old.
The Elephanta Caves
The Elephanta CavesCarved pillars holding up the cave roof.
The Elephanta Caves
The Elephanta CavesThe lingam shrine deep inside the rock.
The Elephanta Caves
The Elephanta CavesHilltop views back across the harbour to the city.
The Elephanta Caves
The Elephanta CavesGulls over the sea on the ferry back.
The Elephanta Caves
The Elephanta CavesThe rock-cut caves of Elephanta, carved out of the living basalt.
The Elephanta Caves
The Elephanta CavesA colossal Shiva relief, fifteen hundred years old.
The Elephanta Caves
The Elephanta CavesCarved pillars holding up the cave roof.
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the Taj
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the TajThe Gateway of India standing over the harbour.
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the Taj
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the TajThe Taj Mahal Palace hotel along the waterfront.
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the Taj
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the TajThrough the great arch to the sea.
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the Taj
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the TajChhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, Gothic and grand.
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the Taj
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the TajThe Bandra-Worli Sea Link curving out over the water.
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the Taj
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the TajInside the Taj — staircases, chandeliers, and old India.
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the Taj
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the TajThe Gateway of India standing over the harbour.
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the Taj
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the TajThe Taj Mahal Palace hotel along the waterfront.
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the Taj
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the TajThrough the great arch to the sea.

Day 10

Thu 11 Jan

Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the Taj

Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the Taj
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the TajChhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, Gothic and grand.
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the Taj
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the TajThe Bandra-Worli Sea Link curving out over the water.
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the Taj
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the TajInside the Taj — staircases, chandeliers, and old India.
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the Taj
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the TajThe Gateway of India standing over the harbour.
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the Taj
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the TajThe Taj Mahal Palace hotel along the waterfront.
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the Taj
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the TajThrough the great arch to the sea.

Day 11

Fri 12 Jan

Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the Taj

Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the Taj
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the TajChhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, Gothic and grand.
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the Taj
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the TajThe Bandra-Worli Sea Link curving out over the water.
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the Taj
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the TajInside the Taj — staircases, chandeliers, and old India.
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the Taj
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the TajThe Gateway of India standing over the harbour.
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the Taj
Mumbai — Gateway, CSMT & the TajThe Taj Mahal Palace hotel along the waterfront.

Where we wandered